New tweak for Rega 3-point mounted tonearms

Just share with you another new and simple tweak from a fellow enthusiast, Dennis of North Carolina, USA :

Rega 3-point mounted tonearm tweak

Photo courtesy of Dennis showing the new tweak
(He also uses #3 BDR Racing cones under his P5 which sits on a 50 lbs granite slab)

This is in fact a simple and effective tweak for a Rega 3-point mounted tonearm which costs you next to nothing and it's really worth trying.

1. Get rid of the wood screws Rega uses.
2. Get 3 Stainless Steel 2” (3 @ 6-32 X 2" or M3X50 mm) screws, stainless steel nuts (or wing nuts) and washers( no lock type).

3. Drill straight through the plinth and fasten them hand tight + ¼ turn and you’re done.

"You will get better resolution and natural tone with a solid bass presentation. Very nice Tweak!" - Dennis

Try out this 3-point mounted tonearm tweak today!

I would like to thank Dennis for sharing with me this brilliant yet simple idea and also for allowing me to post it here. Cheers!

* I have tried this mod with satisfactory may want to read>>

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After almost "completely"upgrading my P2 TT with the easy plug-and-play gadgets, I can't help eyeing at the 18 mm chipboard plinth (2 kg) which is a little too thin and light for my liking. Finally, I decide to try on a more massive 2"(51 mm) fiberboard plinth.

Why fiberboard? Fiberboard is considered a better choice compared to chipboard as it has better anti-resonance property than chipboard. The new P3-24 TT plinth is also made of fiberboard of around 20 mm in thickness.

My DIY plinth is based on the following measurements:

Dimensions : 448.0 mm x 360.0mm x 51.0 mm
Diameter for main bearing housing : 18.0 mm
Diameter for tonearm hole: 25.0 mm (~1")
Diameter for pulley hole: 21.0 mm
Distance between main bearing and pulley (centre to centre) : 68.0 mm
Distance from main bearing to tonearm (centre to centre) : 222.0 mm

This new 2" (51 mm) plinth is about three times the mass (~6 kg) of the original chipboard plinth and it would help to reduce the vibration (main bearing, motor assembly and from the ground through the rubber feet etc) from reaching the record surface and the tonearm.

Top view with 18 mm diameter main bearing

Bottom view

It is not too difficult to transfer the main bearing and the RB250 tonearm from my old P2 plinth to fix onto the new fiberboard plinth. Since my motor assembly is already out-board *, I only need to align the pulley such that it is centrally located in the 20 mm diameter hole. Put back the ball bearing , add a few drops of (80w/90 hypoid gear) lubricating oil, aluminium sub-platter, silicon belt and the acrylic platter just takes me another couple of minutes! And now, the new turntable is ready to play my favorite records!

The result is a significant sonic improvement, less background noise, more details and clearer music/sound.

Try it out yourself and enjoy the permanent improvement with a small outlay ( around USD 100.00 in my case). The new TT also looks better with this thicker plinth, more like a traditional turntable-the vintage Thorens TD160 or Linn LP12.

* DIY out-board motor ( click to read more on......)

Acrylic Plinth click to read more on......)

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