Goran's upgraded RP6

Goran of Sweden has upgraded his RP6 with various mods. With great satisfaction he shares his experience in tweaking his beloved RP6 in detail here. Enjoy reading!

Hi Michael, 

Now I’m finished with all the Mods :-) 

Adjustable feet was a necessity for me as you can on my pictures, A wall mounted rack is very difficult to get exactly horizontal in all direction so the your feet housing came very handy and it looks good too. It was easy to install, but I was little confused when assembled the adjusting nut and feet housing separately they were very wobbly but together the tighten up against the tap nicely and makes the correct friction against each other. The original rubber feet went in to the housing with no problem. As it is now I keep them without any filling. Sonically, I can’t hear any noise even if I tap on the glass shelf. 

The Underslunged counter weight was quit easy it only requires good tools. The exact pickup delivered with the RP6 is very light so I had removed all extra weight knobs and the got it right. 

The Sub-platter with the ceramic bearing and 3-belt pulley was easy to install. I didn’t even have to remove the motor, just tugged puller between the plinth and the pulley. 

The last but not least was the Motor Isolation Base. Removing the motor from the plinth was easy and the sticky double glue tape is easily taken off from the motor stand. Following the instructions and trying measure the height for the pulley gave a hint of much extra shimming you need to do. Before the try out you need to put the cover for the motor control card and in my case I had take away some material to get the snug fit it’s something you might end up do because of the soldering on the card.

It turned out during the fitting of the base I couldn’t use the white circular pad it was too high even with no shims. So I use the the 3 rubber pads which came with the package. To get the correct setup with the Base and control card tricky but eventually you will find the position. With all in place after several try outs I was able to hook up the belts and aligning the pulley. Now I was able give some tension on the belts which in fact got a better run on the table. 

Was it worth the money and the trouble? 

Yes absolutely, the solid Subplatter is such a nice piece of metal handcrafted with knowledge and care and that also goes for the rest of the mods. 

Musically I can say sitting and listen to Daftpunk new album RAM and ”Within" which start with a solo piano is just amazing to hear the sound it’s so elegant and relaxed and controlled. It just gave me goose bump listening and the silent parts are really really silent absolutely no rumble or hiss just quite as the black night. 

This was a nice journey to take a good product to be a lot better. I just love enthusiasts in the world. Thank you Michael for your effort and knowledge for us out there with the same passion as you. 

Goran Magnusson RP6 ML Edition

Best Regards, 

Thanks Goran !

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Gerret 's vta adjuster and finger nut upgrade

VTA adjustable is a new upgrade that I have added to my list recently. Gerret has just installed it onto his Rega turntable. He also shares with us his experience in upgrading his Rega turntable. 

Take a look!


This may be an odd thing to say, but the VTA adjuster is gorgeous. It is very well made and fits so snug that I am thinking anyone with a "traditional" mount Rega arm should have one just to make the arm mount more precise. 

The true reason for choosing it in my case is the future update to a Dynavector cartridge and this will require VTA adjustment. 

I attached some photos of my turntable to show the upgrades to date. 

It started as as a Rega Planar 2 and slowly moved into what it is today. Starting with an RP3 would have been easier in retrospect, but also more expensive. 

Changes include - in order of change: 
 - End stub replacement to metal stub and weight (Britaudio) 
 - Record weight (Audio Technica) 
 - Feet upgrade (Michael Lim) 
 - Sub-platter upgrade (Tangospinner) 
 - Plinth Upgrade (Audiowood) 
 - Motor Upgrade to 24V (Rega) 
 - Double 45 pulley (Michael Lim) 
 - Double belt upgrade (Michael Lim) 
 - Music Hall Speed Control 
 - Delrin Platter (GrooveTracer) 
 - VTA Adjuser & Finger Nut (Michael Lim) 

 Some funds were recovered by selling the glass platter and old motor. 

 I am now close to the end of this journey with the cartridge change being the next to final step. If the wiring in the arm gives me trouble that would be the final one. 

Michael, thank you for your inspiration and great products. 

Kind regards, 
Gerret Meyer 
Johns Creek, 

Thanks Gerret!

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Dominik's new P5 plinth upgrade....

A "New turntable" is great joy to Dominik of Switzerland! 

Yes, when you have built a new turntable from your old turntable, sure you'll feel great joy ...

Great joy to hear better music .... 

Great joy in bringing out higher capabilities from your old turntable ...

And above all, Great joy to see the fruit of your own effort in this beautiful new turntable! 

Hi Michael 

I just wanted to give you a feedback of my heavily updated Rega P5 (in fact there is not much left what says P5 ;-). 

Parcel arrived just few days after I asked about shipping duration. Packaging was very professional and quite bullet proof. 

The unpacking was pleasant, so was the stripping of old deck and assembling of the upgraded/new turntable. Everything was straightforward and rather easy to build. IF there were questions I was able to get the right answer by reading carefully and watching your according photographs. 

The new turntable is great joy. Built quality and sonic quality are on a very level! Presentation of music, rythm, pace and soundstage are outstanding - quite a lot beyond Rega P5 capabilities

I'm very pleased with this purchase and it helps me to have Rega at its best. Next improvement will be an Audiomods tonearm. 

Thanks and best regards from Switzerland 

Thanks, Dominik !

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Today we are going to take a look at the main bearing hub for our Rega turntables. Many seem to be quite happy with their stock brass-made units.

Is it necessary to upgrade? What about upgrading it to the bronze bearing hub? Is it worthwhile? 

And why bronze? 

Bronze is one of the best materials for bearing due to its low coefficient of friction, toughness and strength, not to mention another very important feature it possesses, i.e. lubricity. Low coefficient of friction would mean easier start-up, smoother running and less vibration/noise generated from the bearing hub. And the property of lubricity enables it to run with very little lubrication (in case you may not be aware or may have overlooked to re-lubricate it over a long period of time). So even if there's negligence on our part, damages to the sub-platter steel shaft would be minimum. Of course, it's still a good practice to run with adequate lubrication for optimal performance.

Bronze Bearing Hub
Model : BH18 (USD48.80)
I have tried out the new Bronze bearing sleeve or hub replacing the stock 18mm (~3/4")  brass bearing hub and I am very satisfied with the result. I would say it's a worthwhile upgrade for you. The bronze hub is suitable for Planar 2, Planar 3, P2, P3, P3-24, P3-2000, P5, P25, RP-3, RP-6, some NAD and Goldring turntables.

It's also suitable for DIY turntable projects using Rega sub-platters or compatible aluminium sub-platters!

Try it out yourself! Hearing is believing! 

Let's enjoy more analog music!

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Upgrade or abandon - lrpLakeSide

"To Upgrade or abandon? " This is a common question frequently asked by Rega TT owners!

If you happen to be one of them, why not just spend some time reading the following post in vinylengine:

Upgrade or abandon
Post by :lrpLakeSide » 28 Dec 2015 22:40 

Upgrade or abandon 

I was finally able to complete the P1 upgrades. $200 on a new machined aluminum subplatter, brace, thrust bearing, and a bearing sheath. 

thrust bearing, hub nut

The brace required the removal of the tonearm and bearing well, so while those were off I fitted the thrust bearing, I couldn't bear leaving the motor cover off or using spacers, so a hole was made to allow the thrust bearing through. Once flipped back over I fitted the brace, gluing it down, while aligning the bearing well and tonearm. Once in place two small screws were added to hold the brace in place. Now that the bearing well was back in the plinth I attached the bearing sheath. It certainly added some strength to the bearing well. 

Subplatter, brace
With the brace, thrust bearing, and bearing sheath in place I refitted the tonearm (which also received a new lift mechanism since the last one crapped out after about a year) and it was time to drop in the new subplatter. I dropped the newly supplied ball bearing in, lubed it up and waited for the subplatter to seat itself. I added a Rega white belt and was off and spinning. 

Everything was sounding much more stable, consistent, and accurate. Because all four were added at once I can't say what each did to the overall presentation, but here's what did happen..... If you remember this was my secondary system, which was admittedly built to be low-fi and mainly play back cd's, I pulled the P1 out so I had a back up table, but still preferred to listen to cd's on that system until now! :o Needless to say the cd sound quality hails in comparison to the modded P1 now and that was certainly not the case prior to the modifications. I have done several cd vs vinyl comparisons after the mod on this system and the P1 puts the cd player to shame now (as vinyl always should). $200 well spent and enjoy my P1 more then ever!  

Thanks again for helping, 

Read also on >>> Luke's P5 upgrade 

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