Richard of Singapore has upgraded his Rega RP3 with underslung counterweight, aluminium sub platter, stainless steel dual pulley and silicone belts. 

You can see from his picture, removing the stock aluminium pulley is not anymore a difficult task with my pulley puller (it's done directly from top of plinth). So for RP3 owners, if that's what keeps you from dual pulley upgrade, you may rest assured now that everything would be fine.

And you'll not be disappointed as "Everything sounds so new and fresh! "  as Richard has put it   in his comments....

Hi! 
I thought I give it a few days to run-in the new pulley n belts but seriously, if this is what I'm getting before the run-in, I am totally impressed. 

Vocals and instrumentation have all gone up a couple of notches. Everything sounds so new and fresh! 

1. Aluminium Sub-platter upgrade
Aluminium Sub-platter installed 
2. Underslung Counterweight upgrade
Removing the end-stub
Counterweight installed 



3. Dual Pulley and silicone belts upgrade
Puller working directly from top of plinth
Dual Pulley installed
Silicone Belts put on
All the upgrades in place!



Best regards 
Richard



Thanks Richard!


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Counter weight upgrade by Seba ..


Comes to Counterweight upgrades, there are always two common questions being put forward to me :


Q1. " Michael , any problem with the cover? Will your CWT be too high that I will have problem with the TT cover? 

Answer from me, " Not at all, you can still cover it perfectly as the top part of my CWT is almost in line with the tonearm. In fact it's lower than the stock Rega CWT. " 
( Take a look at the picture below from Seba.)

Q2. " Michael, I am fearful to remove the Rega stub and I have decided not to touch the stub, is there any way that I could still upgrade to your CWT? "

Answer from me, " No problem, you may use my CWT with Rega stub if you prefer not to remove the stock stub...."

My underslung counterweight is easy to install and it comes with fine VTF adjustment feature which makes VTF fine tuning very much simpler for you. You also have the choice of not changing the Rega stub or completely replacing the whole CWT altogether with my stainless steel stub.

Sharing with you here upgrades by Seba from Quebec, Canada. Enjoy!


Hi Michael 

long time since we last chat :) 

CW, Adjustable Feet and top brace really have made a difference. I much more enjoy my LP experience with your mods :)

1) Counterweight + Top bracing
Note : The cover would not be affected 

2) Aluminium Feet + Bearing Sheath



 Cheers 
 Seba





Thanks, Seba!





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Most of us have a lot of old 7" vinyl records with big holes (a tad less than 38mm) in our cabinets. In order to spin them on the standard turntable with standard smaller diameter spindle, we need a 45rpm record adapter. This is not something new and many of you might already have one of those common ones made of plastic in your possession. But my 45rpm adapter as shown below is completely different....

It's a dual-function adapter!


Let me explain : my alloy adapter weighs approximately 2 oz(or 58g), not only serves the function of 45rpm record insert, it can also be used as a light weight record clamp for your other standard 12" lps. Cool?



This product  is available in two colors, gold or silver to match your turntable.


Gold color model : A45G - USD12.80
Silver color model: A45S - USD12.80

i) As 45rpm adapter for 7" record




ii) As record clamp for standard 12" lps









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Irritated by motor Noise ? Then your solution is none other than motor isolation! 

Laszlo of Houston, Texas, is pleased after adding this upgrade to his Project Debut Carbon turntable. Let's hear his comments :





Hi Michael,

The motor isolation base arrived safely yesterday. I was so excited, so I started to work on my turntable immediately. I separated the motor as you and others suggested on your website. Earlier, I made an isolation platform for my turntable from 1” plywood and quiet marble tile embedded into silicon. The platform has adjustable leveling legs and is sitting on thick sorbothan pads on a shelf. The turntable legs are on sorbothan pads and your motor isolation base assemble is on sorbothan pads too. The modification was easy with a Dremmel. I removed the shelf and set-up everything, leveling and no touch to the plinth positioning, then placed back the shelf to the wall unit. One more check and connections, test drive and no more motor noise! Perfect

Thanks a lot. Attached find few quick pictures. 







Best, 
Laszlo



Thanks Laszlo



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Jonathan's Skeletal DIY "RP8 Plinth" TT ....



Take a look at this DIY Turntable of skeletal plinth design by Jonathan of Cheltenham, Australia. For more adventurous turntable enthusiasts, this would definitely interest you! Why not start a new project too!!








Hi Michael,

Now I have some time off work, I’ve almost finished my turntable. 

Please see new pictures. 




The skeletal plinth now has a modesty skirt (which is not connected mechanically, just sits around it to please the wife) and the speed controller and phono preamp are boxed up and in the boxes below the TT on the shelf. 




I tried a electronic speed controller for the motor, which attempts to compensate load current with increasing voltage motor. 

Although this works and would be ideal for a small electric drill, for a TT its pointless as there is not enough precision, it is of course feed forward not feed back. To do it properly the motor must have an encoder or tacho and this motor does not have that facility. 

So now I just have a simple voltage regulator, made with an LED as a reference and opamp... the LM317T adjustable reg would be just as good if not better! 4.56V at 7mA, that’s 30mW!! Would run for almost ever on a PP3 battery. 

Some feedback and pictures:

The pulley works well, but is compromised in my installation because the maxon motor shaft is quite short, particularly after it has passed through my isolation system which uses a 3mm sticky pad. 





As a result the motor shaft is only around half to 2/3 way through your pulley and the concentricity suffers. I do not claim to be able to hear the wow, it just doesn’t look too good. I have shimmed the motor shaft with cooking foil. 

This is around 0.018mm thick and I have a whole turn of it in there (with no overlap) so I think your pulley is probably around 0.336mm, which is tad large given the maxon shaft spec at 3mm -0.005 to -.010mm. But hey, the pulley is designed for the Reaga motor, so I can’t complain! 

The turntable is a skeletal design based loosely on the RP8, but using marine grade 12mm plywood, with strategic bracing. The main bearing is stand with the addition of a ceramic ball. Arm is SME3009 with Shure V15 III with the SAS stylus. 





Your platter is very well made, excellent. The mid range seems rather brighter too, which is surprising, but good because it was a little recessive before. I need to try the different mats and pick the best. 

Some photos attached for you, this is the new suspended sub chassis made of marine ply rather than Corian, which appears to work better. 

I'll let you know more after I have had a better listen. 

I'm tempted to change the sub platter to one of your aluminium ones, but I have to say the standard one is very good in terms of the run out and the bearing. Much better than I was expecting, maybe Rega have tightened up the tolerances. 

Best regards
Jonathan



Thanks Jonathan!











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