This out-board motor can also be shared by two TTs', e.g. one for stereo and one for mono playback!
This is an extension to motor mounting on motor isolation base.
For those with electrical knowledge and soldering skill, you may want to remove the power supply pcb together with the motor from the board and house it in a plastic container with an on/off switch.
Motor mounted on isolation base
PCB mounted in a plastic box with on/off switch at the side
Power supply cord fixed to the PCB
This becomes an out-board power supply and motor and it's very handy as you can continue to use it on other models of Rega TT should you upgrade your TT.
This out-board motor can also be shared by two TTs', e.g. one for stereo and one for mono playback!
This out-board motor can also be shared by two TTs', e.g. one for stereo and one for mono playback!
My advise is don't attempt this step if you don't have the knowledge and skill due to the presence of 230V/115V AC.
Other Outboard motor kit for RP6 & RP3 :
Motor base (model IB22) - USD100.00
( for most Rega and Project TT's )
Motor vibrations
As we know for the Planar 2 ( and Planar 3), the motor is suspended to the plinth using a rubber band. No doubt it's effective to a certain extend for isolating the motor vibrations since the motor is not directly mounted onto the board. However as the motor spins, it also wobbles when the rubber belt stretches or contracts. As a result, there would be speed inconsistency.
In other later models like P1, P2, P3, P5, RP1, RP3, RP6 TT's(with low-vibration motors), double-sided tape is used instead of rubber band to attach the motor to the board. This is a simple way to reduce motor vibrations from reaching the record surface and the stylus. But low vibration does not mean no vibration. The stylus is sensitive to vibrations that is micro in nature.
There are many ways suggested to reduce this motor vibrations e.g by dampening around it or to upgrade to a low vibration motor/high performance motor. But, nothing is better than to "separate" the motor which is mounted to the plinth!
The idea of an off-board motor
Separating the motor from the plinth looks like involving a lot of work. Many might just wonder how easy is it for them to put the motor "off-board" or out-board? In my case, I put the motor "below-board" (also "off-board", of course). This is done without involving any drilling.
Let me show you how I do it:
i) Remove the motor by opening the the motor compartment cover, loosens the two screws holding the suspended motor, the bracket and rubber band.
ii) Fix the motor onto the stainless isolation base, IB22 ( my "invention") either by screws or acrylic tape.
iii) Change the rubber feet to slightly higher ones so as to raise the height to accommodate the isolation base, IB22. The motor is now anchored firmly ( by the weight of the isolation base) below the board by about 2 mm.
iv) Align the motor pulley to make sure that the motor is not touching the board.
(For Planar 2/3, we will see two holes on the plinth which are not used anymore)
This stainless steel isolation base, IB22, that I've used above not only acts as a vibration-sink, but also a heat-sink; the motor runs much cooler due to faster heat conduction as well as better ventilation. It actually out-performs the Planar 3 motor upgrade (click link to read comparison).
Holding the loose off-board motor
In order that we can still move around the turntable (whenever necessary) with the motor/isolation base unattached to the plinth, I use a piece of rubber mesh netting to hold the assembly. This rubber mesh netting covers the motor/isolation base and power supply compartment and is kept in place by plastic brackets using the existing screws holes (originally for the stock plastic cover). No drilling is required.
Note: The rubber mesh netting is slightly slack and the motor base actually rests on the same surface as the turntable feet. It's not touching the plinth or hanging on the plinth/netting.
Now you can sit back and enjoy surprisingly nicer music!!!
*Keep the original Rega rubber feet (3 pcs) and motor compartment cover as motor isolation base upgrade is reversible. You may put it back to original Rega TT should you decide to upgrade to other TT's in the future.
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And :
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Chris Tasker of Canada gave his comments after using the motor isolation base on his P5 :
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Al Sands of New Zealand gave his comments after using the motor isolation base on his Planar 3 :
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Bernard Gould of United Kingdom gave his comments on motor isolation base and dual upgrade for his Rega P25(24V motor):
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Jan Beltman of Netherland gave his comments after using the motor isolation base on his NAD533 (with 24V motor) :
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Kogfy of Larkspur Colorado, gave his comments after using the motor isolation base on his Planar 2 :
VE feedback - motor base upgrades:
Plastico
Jasspastorn
During the years I have upgraded my Planar 2 with some Michael Lim aftermarket products, and I have to say that they are both cost-effective and easy to install. The motor-isolation base proved to be an excellent upgrade for me.
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James Houston of Glasgow gave his comments after fixing motor isolation base to his Origin Live motor :
I'm VERY HAPPY with the difference your product has made to the sound on my Planar 3. It's very noticeable that everything about the sound is more detailed and solid. The bass improvement is amazing, it goes right through the floor now! |
VE feedback - motor base upgrades:
Plastico
I could not believe the level of improvement that this upgrade did for my P3! Cheers,
Doug |
Jasspastorn
During the years I have upgraded my Planar 2 with some Michael Lim aftermarket products, and I have to say that they are both cost-effective and easy to install. The motor-isolation base proved to be an excellent upgrade for me.
Thiago of Brazil gave his comments after using the motor isolation base on his P5:
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This isolation base is also suitable for most Rega and Pro-ject turntables as well as some Thorens models.
Arthur of California gave his comments on motor isolation base upgrade for his Pro-ject 2.9 wood:
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Ronald Bonner of Dallas gave his comments on motor isolation base upgrade for his Pro-ject Debut Carbon:
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Laszlo of Houston gave his comments on motor isolation base upgrade for his Pro-ject Debut Carbon:
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Read more on >> how to make an outboard motor
Convenient to those who are spinning a few Rega TT's. This can be a common motor!
Also it's easier to move around your turntable with this option.
New: outboard motor with PCB mounting kit
The turntable motor itself also generates vibrations as it spins while driving the sub-platter or platter. This is unavoidable. If we let this vibration transmit freely to the record surface or the tonearm cartridge, we would expect poorer sound quality being produced and amplified.
Another undeniable fact is all motors vibrates whether it is high-vibration or low-vibration types or whether it is 220/110v or 24v types-it's matter of degree. There is no such thing as "no vibration motor". Any vibration, no matter how low, would cause a degradation in music quality as long as it finds it's way to the tonearm or record surface.
Is there a solution?
I think every turntable designer has this same headache when designing their fabulous turntables i.e how to mount this vibration generating culprit so as not to affect the performance of the turntable!
Can we isolate the motor "completely" so as to cut down the transmission of this motor vibrations to the plinth? And in order to experiment out, I removed the motor of my Rega Planar 2 from the main plinth. With the motor detached from the plinth, I could feel no vibrations on the plinth (where the motor is originally mounted). I tested the turntable immediately to prove to myself that the idea of "motor in isolation" would bring about very substantial sonic improvement to the turntable .
I was surprised to see the results. In fact the results of tweaking the Planar 2 from "motor isolation point of view" were much more effective than I'd expected!
I shall discuss and share with you in detail what I have done with my motor in my next post.
Stay tuned .....
Those who are looking for new entry-level manual turntable to begin their analogue experience should serious consider the award-winning model-Essential, from Pro-ject.
It is equipped with a uni-pivot tonearm, low vibration motor, silicone belt(not rubber belt) and resonance free MDF platter. USB model with built-in phono preamp is also available-a big saving for amplifier without phono input.
The humble Rega P1 turntables can be further improved without problems using many third party products/accessories. This could be one of the many reasons that makes Rega turntables very popular. Another reason is that the Rega turntables are simple, rugged and very well engineered - to last for a long time.
The stock Rega P1 is equipped with Ortofon OM5E stylus. By just changing the stylus to OM10E, you get an upgrade immediately. Just plug and play - a very simple upgrade. OM10E costs around USD 50.00-60.00, depending on where you buy it from.
Ortofon OM10E stylus
The first thing I am going to do is to change the original mild steel counterweight. Just remove the counterweight, followed by the plastic end-stub. Then screw in the stainless steel end-stub and fix the under-slung stainless steel counterweight.
Under-slung stainless steel counterweight (USD100.00)
The original wooden fiber platter of Rega P1 could be replaced or upgraded cheaply either by getting a used 10 mm glass Rega Planar 2 from the flea market for USD 20.00-30.00 or a new acrylic platter (24 mm thick) for ~USD 130.00. You can hear the difference immediately after the change.
Rega P1 with original wooden fiber platter
8 mm /10 mm glass platter (~USD 45.00)
Upgraded Rega P1 with
Acrylic platter (USD 130.00) and
Rubber/cork mat ( USD25.00)
Acrylic platter (USD 130.00) and
Rubber/cork mat ( USD25.00)
To change the original plastic sub-platter to the aluminium metal sub-platter with anti-resonance pattern brings about immediate sonic improvement that no one can deny. Remove the plastic unit carefully and insert the aluminium metal sub-platter after wetting the stainless shaft with suitable lubricating oil.
Aluminium sub-platter (USD150.00)
All turntables are susceptible to ground-borne vibrations and a good isolating platform would help to reduce this undesirable effect, thus improving the sonic performance. So lastly I put my Rega P1 turntable onto a 20 mm acrylic isolating platform for better isolation from undesirable vibrations.
Rega P1 turntable with aluminium sub-platter, acrylic platter,
stainless steel counterweight, record clamp,
and 20 mm acrylic isolating platform (USD110.00)
and 20 mm acrylic isolating platform (USD110.00)
Shall we sit back and enjoy beautiful music from this upgraded Rega P1 turntable!
Proceed to :
i) Detail steps to upgrade P1....
on Motor isolation base upgrade if you are adventurous.
ii) Stainless steel pulley ( Standard and dual ) for a surprise.
iii) Aluminium feet ( à la p7/p9 feet)
*Notes:
1. All upgrades for Rega P1 turntable are also applicable for Rega RP1, P2, P3, P3-24, P5, P25, Planar 2 and Planar 3 turntables.
2. Counter-weight upgrade can also be used for Rega P7 and P9 turntables to improve the performance.
*Read more on : "Tips on upgrading ........">>
To renew your childhood interest in vinyl?
To go analogue and enjoy the warm feeling of vinyl music?
The question now is : to buy new or preowned turntables?
You are lucky if you have a unit in store that was left behind by your father or grandfather; by all means take it out and try to revive it with help from your neighborhood hi-fi shop. You might even be able to do it yourself as treasure trove of information on turntables readily available on the Internet.
Alternatively, you may hunt for a preowned turntable; the vintage turntables actually can perform as well as or better than some of the new turntables.
For those who are choosing to buy a new turntable, it might not be easy as there are many brands of turntables around and it can be confusing if you don't have much knowledge on turntables. Hence, it would be much safer to go for established brands like Pro-ject , Thorens, Rega, Clear Audio, Music Hall, Denon,Technics, VPI etc.
Pro-ject
Pro-ject Audio manufactures in EU (European Union) a full range of modern turntables from award winning entry level Debut to high-end models with advance carbon fibre and Ortofon tonearms. You can't go wrong buying from Pro-ject Audio Systems, headquartered in Vienna, Austria, land of the 'Sound Of Music' and Johann Strauss II. In addition they also produce a full range of supporting accessories from cork mat to record clamp etc.
RPM 1 "Genie"
(with decoupled motor and inverted bearing)
Debut
(with acrylic platter)
Thorens
If you are looking for Swiss/German precision, Thorens is the answer. Thorens, has been making audio/turntable equipment for 128 years. It manufactured a full range of turntables from entry level to high end turntables with typical Swiss and German engineering precision and the result is extremely well designed turntables that will last for a long time. I personally own several units of vintage Thorens (TD150/160/145/125/135) that were made in the 60'/70' and still produces exhilarating music far better than many costly modern turntables. It's not advisable to buy the entry level automatic models with light plastic body which are not upgradeable. These units are more prone to breakdown due to too many mechanical linkages and are generally poorer in sound quality compared to manual equivalents. You would get stuck with the mediocre sound with no hope of further improvement other than to give it away or to trade-in for a new model. Try to go for mid-range manual models.
Vintage Thorens TD150
( with acrylic mat )
Thorens TD 309
(with 3-point spring suspended chassis)
Rega
If your are looking for British conservatism and value for money turntables, your choice could be Rega, a manufacturer famous for their Planar 2 and Planar 3 budget turntables (and RB250/RB300 tonearms). These were made in 70'/80' and I have a couple of units that are still functioning well today. As for the new P2/P3,there are not much visible changes compared to Planar 2/3 except the motors are of lower vibration units, mounted directly to the underside of the wooden plinth by double-sided tape. This is an economical way of securing the motors but definite not the most ideal way as the double-sided tape tends to deteriorate with time especially in the hot and humid tropical environment.
I personally prefer my Planar 2 and Planar 3 with more massive plinth with RB250/RB300 tonearms. The P2/P3 are coupled with new RB251/301 tonearms with plastic three-point mounting base compared with brass and stainless steel mounting base for RB250/RB300. This method of mounting the tonearm is nothing new (The Luxman PD277 also comes with three-point mounting but with all stainless steel base, not plastic). I don't know how long the plastic base will last. If the plastic base cracks or breaks the whole arm would be rendered useless. Stainless steel mounting base is only available for higher models like P5/P7/P9.
Even though considered quite conservative, Rega offers turntables that are hassle-free, 'timeless', value for money, and more importantly upgradable. Personally, I would shy away from 'entry-level' unit for reason stated above.
Rega Planar 3
( with acrylic platter)
Upgraded Rega P2
(with glass platter and RB251 tonearm)
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