Ever thought of a DIY TTPSU project? Here are some useful tips from Dieter who has made himself a DIY TTPSU for his Rega turntable. It would be very helpful for those who are interested in the project: 

Dieter from Germany shares with us his ideas on his DIY TTPSU

Hello Michael,  Here's my ideas for my DIY TT PSU:  The need for a TT PSU results from : 1. The switching from 33 to 45 RPM by changing the belt from the small to the larger Part of the pulley is inconvenient and it changes the tension of the belt.  2. As it is well known the Rega TTs tend to a Rotation Speed thats too high. For this reason subplatters with an increased diameter are available. So in my understanding a fine pitch is needed.  3. The REGA TT PSU is too expensive and it consists of a quartz stabilized sine wave Output, but not of a pitch control. In my understanding quartz precision is not needed, because of the not well defined slippage of the Belt. And who needs a high precision Rotation Speed of 33 2/3 RPM?  My PSU consists of a precision sine wave Generator (IC) that is adjustable by external resistances. The sine wave is then amplified by a high voltage opamp and darlington Transistors at the Output. The PSU is operated at about plus/minus 40 volts, so an Output of 24volts AC is possible. The supply of the sine wave Generator is stabilised to plus/minus 9 volts. The resistors for the fine pitch are chosen so that the Speed can be adjusted to plus/minus 0.4%.  So my TT PSU works fine. The harmonic distortion of the sine Output is less than 0.3%, it consists of a simple Switch for 33/45 RPM and it is adjustable for both Rotation Speeds.  Best Regards  Dieter

Dieter has also upgraded his TT with double pulley and silicone belts:

Pictures: courtesy of Dieter

Dieter's DIY TTPSU below his TT

Upgrading to double pulley and silicon belts 

Spinning more accurately with TTPSU

Thanks Dieter for sharing the info and pictures with us!

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Belt Tension 

For most of the manual budget turntables from Rega or Pro-ject, the speed selection is done manually -  just switch the belt from the 33.3rpm pulley slot to 45rpm slot or vice versa. Very simple and of course, cost effective also (without incurring extra cost of a TTPSU).

But is this the most ideal way? In the first place, if the belt tension is optimized for 33.3 rpm slot, the tension would be a bit higher for 45 rpm; conversely if it is optimized for 45 rpm slot, then it would be slightly lower for 33.3 rpm. Moreover, the belt also tends to get stretched over time. The interesting question here is : how to adjust this small variation in belt tension?

For Rega P5 the motor is bolt-mounted through slots. So it's possible to adjust the motor/pulley assembly slightly forward or backward to optimize the belt tension.

What about other Rega models like Planar 2/3 (including RP1, P1, P2, P3, P3-24) where the motor/pulley assemblies are fixed to the plinth using sticky pads (or rubber band)? No, there's no way to adjust the pulley tension manually without some mod....

Probably we may try ......

1. Bolt-mounted the motor ( like P5) to the plinth with suitable insulator and washers.
Mark the positions of the motor mounting holes before removing it from the sticky pad. Drill two holes(one with a slotted hole) on the plinth for the motor mounting bolts. Mount the motor. Now the motor/pulley could be moved forward or backward to optimize the belt tension for both 33.3 or 45.

2. Decouple the motor and mount it on an isolation motor base.
Since the motor/pulley assembly is not fixed to the plinth, it could be moved forward or backward easily to optimized the belt tension besides solving the "wobbling motor" problem of Planar 2/3 and eliminating motor vibrations from the plinth(for motors mounted with stick pads).

3. Use a TTPSU and the belt tension is set to a fixed slot for both 33.3 and 45 playback!


The next question is which slot is better to park the belt when using TTPSU? 33.3 or 45?

For Rega TTPSU, we have no choice as it's set at 33.3.

However, personally I would prefer to park the belt at 45 rpm slot.... (if there is a choice).

Why? You may ask.

With a TTPSU which requires the TT belt to be parked at 45 rpm slot, the motor actually runs much slower compared to when the belt is parked at 33 rpm slot. This is particularly true for 60Hz region like North America (USA and Canada) where the motor runs at a higher speed of 300rpm compared with EU's 250rpm. By getting the motor to run slower, the corresponding motor noise and vibration would be lowered too (logical?). This could be significant to TT needle which is sensitive to micro-vibrations.

Based on the above, do you think parking the belt at 45 rpm slot(with the tension properly adjusted) would be a better option for turntables in general, considering motor noise/vibration is the greatest "enemy" to our turntables?

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Motor isolation base upgrade has been an intriguing project for many Rega TT tweakers. This mod is important  as it isolates the motor and thus vibration from the motor to the plinth. In fact even in tweaking other TT's like Thorens or Pro-ject, I would also begin with this fundamental but critical part of the turntables.

To ensure this mod is reversible without any drilling on the plinth, rubber mesh netting is used to secure the motor base assembly for easy transportation. This may be the only way for P1/RP1/P2/P3-24 and RP3 TT's (unless you don't mind drilling two holes on the plinth), but for P5/P25, Planar 2/Planar 3 TT's, we have an alternative way here which may interest you. Have a look: 

watercourse's update and pictures on motor base in vinylengine :

Just an update that I have completed the motor base mod for ease of transport. Make sure you ask Michael Lim for a pair of extra posts and a variety of screw lengths when you order. Pics of this and all other mods in my gallery. The P5 "Maxine" sounds awesome.... ...... After experimenting a bit more with the motor base, first by having the motor contact the plinth and then ensuring that it does not contact it - I verified that the base absolutely provides an audible, positive effect by completely removing the already minimized vibrations in the P5 motor from entering the plinth and the tonearm, and thus prevents the motor from negatively affecting the sound. This is most noticeable in image solidity and increased smoothness - Highly recommend!

Screws attach to motor base for transport

Screws removed to decouple motor

Base

For Rega P5, P25, Planar 2 and Planar 3, I am adding a piece of plastic bracket for mounting the motor this way (it's reversible). Remember to remove the screws to decouple the motor before spinning!

Material used : 

a. Plastic bracket( for strengthening)

b. 20 mm or 30 mm M3 bolts and washers

1. Align the brass props of motor base with the motor mounting holes on the plinth.

2. Align the screw mounting holes and pulley hole of the black plastic bracket provided with the holes on the plinth.

3. Use 20 mm or 30 mm M3 bolts and washers, going through the plastic bracket and screw onto the props, securing the motor base/motor/pulley assembly to the board for transport purposes. However, you would need to remove the bracket/bolts when playing. 

4. The bracket may be permanently fixed to the top of the board with very thin 3M acrylic tape if you wish.

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Pulley puller , PR1 : USD12.00

Stainless steel dual or standard pulley upgrade is a simple mod which brings about substantial sonic improvement. The only problem is unlike other plug-and-play upgrades, pulleys for Rega TT's are glued down to the spindle and how to remove the pulley safely is of utmost concern. Though many had shared their experiences in removing their pulleys, some TT owners are still a bit worry, especially to remove the stock aluminium pulley using the "hack method".

I have also posted pictures of various pullers (thanks to all the contributors) as reference for you to source around your area. However, there are still requests to include a puller in my list of upgrades for those who may need it .

It has been in my mind for some time to come out with a simple puller to solve this problem. And now you don't have to look high and low anymore; it's here for you!

Planar 2/3 owners, other than those who have upgraded their motors would not require this puller. 

Swab some acetone onto the
 top of the motor spindle/pulley

Removing pulley with puller 

Job done!

Note: No need to buy a whole bottle of pure acetone, just borrow some finger nail enamel remover solution from your wife/girl friend/daughter will do as only two drops of it is required!


Here's feedback from Michael Minucci of New Jersey, USA:

Michael, Just installed the dual pulley on my P5. Just wanted to say it's an outstanding upgrade. I have a delrin platter which is slightly heavier than the standard glass and it comes up to speed much quicker now. Speed stability is also improved and the sonic improvements especially it seems in the lower end is tighter and more defined. For anyone who is not sure about this upgrade due to fears of removing the original pulley just order the pulley puller. The old pulley came off easily without the need for any acetone. Well worth the $12.00.  Thanks.  Michael  N.J. USA

Feedback and tips from Marty of Brentwood, USA on his RP3 upgrade:

Michael, Just finished installing the dual pulley and it is definitely an improvement! Everything is tighter! More Solid! Just all together better.  The pulley puller worked perfect, not sure why anyone would buy the pulley without the puller, why risk it? one thing I did different was I cut a rubber band for women's hair with fabric surrounding the rubber and tied several very tight knots around the post to create a barrier to stop the acetone from reaching the motor. The idea that the fabric would absorb the acetone. Then after letting it soak I mopped up excess acetone with a q tip. Then pushed the rubber band down with a screwdriver to make room for the extractor. From there it was just a matter of turning the screw until the pulley was free.  Sounds great thanks!

Tip for sourcing for suitable puller : 

* If you are looking for other pullers, make sure its dimension is big enough to accommodate the pulley size e.g. the one in picture below is too small for the pulley and will not work for you.

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Here's the emigration story of Nigel of Ohio, USA and his Rega Planar 3 TT. Let's see how he had overcome the problem of A/C frequency difference (50Hz in Britain and 60hz in USA):
.
 "Hello again Michael,

Here are some photo’s for your blog:

My story is very simple really –

having emigrated recently from Britain to the USA I couldn’t bear to leave my Rega Planar 3 behind even though I wasn’t sure how to make it work over here with the different mains voltage etc. 

So then from reading your blog I realised that the lower voltage supply here wasn’t really the problem.The synchronous motor of the Rega still works, although sometimes it needs a little help to get it turning. The main problem is the different frequency of the supply – 60hz as opposed to the 50hz back home in the UK. The motor was running noticeably faster than 33rpm on that setting. 

So I found out you had a 60hz version of the metal pulley upgrade and ordered the parts from you. 

Your package arrived here in only about a week and I particularly enjoyed the stamps - very colourful!

Fitting it was so easy – it took me only 15 minutes and I was up and running again. The old pulley just popped off with minimal force using my fingers. I didn't need to lever it with any tools.

Removing pulley - 
 using my fingers only

The new pulley slide onto the motor easily 

I then fitted the new silicone drive belt and tested

I even did a crude timing on the rpm and confirmed that, sure enough, it was now running at just over 33rpm – which is exactly where it needs to be, obviously.   Thanks again Michael for your prompt service and support.   Nigel – Ohio, USA "

Thanks Nigel for sharing with us your story here!

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